Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors


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Pryes Brewing Company Brewery. Sociable Cider Werks Brewery. Sisyphus Brewing Brewery. Midwest Mountaineering Outdoor Equipment Store. Annie Hayes Wellness Yoga Studio. Pages Liked by This Page. Evan Taylor Jones. The Cairn Project. Recent Post by Page. Minneapolis Bouldering Project. Cool beans, but what does that mean Contains lots of practical ideas and despite the lack of pictures for some tastes it is still easy to read.

Mountaineers Seattle , Whilst this may seem like an unusual place to go for coaching know-how, this books contains a really easy to read section on training. It is also a refreshing view of how to peak for a trip or personal objective, rather than a competition. Very easy to read and down to earth advice. Collins, A. Button and H. Churchill Livingstone eds. Churchill Livingstone, The book does what it says!


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The good thing is that the contributors include some adventure sports specialists. Flow — the Psychology of Optimal Experience Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi, Harper, A book that examines the state of complete absorption in the moment when busy mind and environment feel as one. I found this an enjoyable read and enlightening that somebody had researched the emotional state I experience during peak performance.

Davids, C. Button and S. Human Kinetics Publishers, A really useful book. Within adventure sports we contend with issues that are considered in the approaches described in this book.

Is it for me?

Ballantine, A very easy to read book that examines how phrasing speak and framing tasks and praise can lead to a positive, open and can-do mindset. Jackson and Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi. Human Kinetics Publishers, Similar to the above book but looking more specifically at sport. Again an interesting read. Thinking Fast and Slow Daniel Kahneman. Penguin, Written by a Nobel Prize winner in the field, this book examines how we go about making decisions. It will help you to understand the thought process and hence make more effective decisions under-pressure.

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Human Kinetics Publishers, One of the original books in this field looking at the power of mastering your own psychology for positive outcomes. Vermillion, A very useful book that builds on Mindset by Dweck and examines how to be in control of your emotions when needed and help structure successful outcomes long term.

How to Climb Harder Mark Reeves. Pesda, This book contains a vast collection of information from the very basics to some quite advanced techniques. Dip in and out of this book at various stages, on various topics, to get the best from it. This in turn will help you to imagine how you might climb the route in your own mind. On the how to climb harder course we cover these skill sou planning and preparation as a tactic to improve peoples climbing.

To find out more or to check out when out next How to Climb Harder course follow the link.

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I suspect that whilst much of her advice is true, a look back at the research, and the actual findings bring much of the context into when that advice is actually applicable. Like most thing in life there are several caveats that can and should be applied to general laws or rules that are often applied to stretching. In the NYT Article there are several points made that can be argued reasonably easily with a brief overview of research literature, however many of these are perhaps taken out of context, and may only apply to the Olympic athlete.

So unless you are an Olympic athlete about to go for gold then does such a small drop in performance really make than much difference to you. Stretching Increases Muscle Strength In direct opposition to this stretching reducing muscle strength, is that if stretching is performed regularly, but not immediately before activity. This highlights one of the problem when it comes to interpreting scientific research.

This statement however true is questionable because how do you expect stretching to prevent stress fractures, the only type of injury stretch might be expected to prevent can surely only be a skeletal muscle or soft tissue injury. Interesting the same military study did conclude that soft tissue type injuries were significantly reduce. Again research points towards different effects regards when you stretch. So stretch immediately before activity has little to no effect with injury prevention, however regular stretching not prior to exercise has been shown to reduce soft tissue type injuries.

Warming up reduces injury At present it would appear that warming up prior to activity is key, in that its purpose is to help increase heart rate, dilate the capillaries, warm up the muscles and speed up nerve transmissions. Current research suggest that prior to a main activity then stretching might not be of benefit for injury prevention and may reduce muscle strength. However a small increase in muscle temperature has been shown to reduce the likelihood of a muscle tear in isolated rabbit muscles. It will take a fitter person longer to achieve a warmed up state than a less fit person.

An alternative to jogging or light exercise is a passive warm up that might take the shape of a hot bath or shower. Climbing is primarily a head game, admitting that you are in it for that moment of thrilling panic, as your breathe deepens and you face the only option, commit or fall. Crossing that line in the sand and facing life at its most primal, fight or flight!

In that moment its not your strength or fitness that will get you through that dark alley, but you mind. At that moment you move on and discover a new place, that ephemoral moment. There are numerous theories, ideas, research and intervention that can at the very least make you aware of some of the components success or failure. This first situation could be numerous times in my climbing career that I have experience, be it when mine or someonelses confidence shines.

Qualifications

This incident though occurred just after I heard of Bandurra, and his thoery of self efficacy. The amount of effort and persisitence we give to an attempt under the threat of failure, even how we think about the climbing and our emotional reactions.

Research has tracked down four main building blocks of self efficacy which in order of influence are prior performances, vicarious experience, verbal persausion and arousal level. What Bandurra theorises is that if you develop the building blocks of efficacy then it increases your own personal beliefs in your ability to achieve your goals, and then you can start to realise those goals. Science aside I have witnessed many days when a series of progressively harder and harder routes have lead to the successful ascent of a new grade of a climbers, none more so compelling than just after I had seen the diagram of the building blocks of self-efficacy.

I had arranged to meet up with two climbers Hazel and Sarah, I had never met them before, in the emails we exchanged I had come to know that they want to push themselves on Slate, and that they had previous lead E2. Unlike teaching beginners these guys were climbers though, and at some point you need to accept the risk. Instead I used a progressive approach, making each route harder than the last. Eventually the girls decided that they both wanted to lead a burly E2 laybacking crack. I sat back and observed from a distance, Sarah the first person up looked a little shakey on the lead but managed it fine when she choose to commit.

Hazel on the other hand climbed it smoothly and in control. On its own that observation was nothing to write home about, however on the second route the order was reversed.

So first up was hazel, this time she was the shakey one, and Sarah climbed with a lot more grace and style. The second route was a bit more complex than that though, as well as looking at the vicarious experience, I was assuming that the previous routes would have also bolstered there confidence as a perforamnce accomplishments. They undoubtably had the skills and ability to lead this route but the anxiety of breaking a new grade was undermining their confidence.

So I told them that as one of the authors of the fourthcoming guidebooks to the area we were downgrading the route to E2 5c, rather than E3 6a. After explaining why we downgraded the route, I climbed it and tried to make it look as easy as I could. By now the colour had return to their faces, and after climbing the route successfully, I re-awarded them with the E3 tick, for which I receive two very big smiles, for a coach there is no bigger reward than the overt satisfaction of people you work with. My next stop was to see where exactly I could go with this, so we went on to another E3, this time I told them the grade, climbed the route, and them let them both lead it.

I did tell them a week later that I had observed and to a certain extent helped the process along by choose rotues to help develop there confidence in stages, both were fine with it, but the real question was it all because of self efficacy? Whether it was or not, the main thing is that improving you self efficacy is so easy that you probably do it already, what this and the following articles want to highlight are ways that modern sports psychology can be used to increase our climbing performance.

The easiest way and by far the most powerful way to increase efficacy is by using your previous accomplishment to build up in a steady progression. It is a delicate line between make too rapider progression and failure or too slower progression and stagnation. Get it right and everything works for you, over step the line and the wheels will quick fall off the wagoon, and you will undoubtably have a negative effect on you confidence.

The trick is to know you ability, know the routes you want to climb and then create a step by step approach to your route. Be it routes of similar style, length, difficult. If you have a route as a goal then you will probably have done your homework and know the demands through reputation. Later in the series we will cover goal setting, but as a starter concerntrate on process goals, like feeling comfortable on route of certain grades, climbing efficiently or placing gear rather than success or failure on specific routes. As well as recent performance expriences it is possible to recall through a process of imagery prior performance.

Like your performance accomplishment, vicarious experience can be gained both directly from observation of both your friends and others, but also through visualisation. One of the mechanisms that it undoubtably works through is our natural behaviour to judge performances against our own ability, so whilst watching someone who you percieve as better than you will still help to increase your efficacy, you often gain more when you witness someone who you percieve as the same level or even worse than you at climbing. In terms of real observations and the ethics of watching someone climb route prior to climbing it, many of the elite climbers of today work to a strict on-sight ethic, where they try and insist that they have onsighted the route, only in the rarest of circumstances is this true.


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They will have undoubtably acculumlated some vicarious experience, be it through watching a friend, or having someone elses description of the route by which they judge their own potential to perform. The only thing that is inportant ethically is that you are true to yourself. For most of us verbal persuasion will come from those around us, be it belayers or friends you are climbing with.

Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors
Effective Coaching: The Coaching Process for Climbing Instructors

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